Add External Monitor to factory DVD/RSE

Alright everyone sorry this wont be as detailed as the nav install write up...I dont have RSE in my truck so im just going off of schematics. So as far as actually removing the RSE off the roof, you are kinda on your own. Maybe someone who has RSE and does this mod can help me out with pictures.

So here we go.

Things you'll need:
1. screwdrivers, pliars, wire strippers
2. electrical tape, ScotchLoc connectors (but I prefer soldering)
3. a 3-5 foot long composite video cable. You can buy this at Radio Shack or just steal the yellow plugged cord from your VCR. I reccomend buying a good quality sheilded cord if you can find one.
4. a good quality video distribution amplifier. You can buy one here: http://www.jpcustoms.com/store/custo...me.php?cat=783
5. and you will also need another long good quality sheilded video cable that has to be long enough to run from teh RSE to whereever your extra monitor is going to be mounted. (front passenger visor?)
6. multimeter or continuity tester (this is optional tho)

Remove the RSE assembly from the ceiling. I think there are some screws underneath the flip down screen. Flip down teh screen and IIRC there are a couple phillips head screws there. Remove the main plug that connects the RSE assy to the body of the truck. Pull the RSE assy down from the ceiling and open it up so you can get a look at the guts. There will be a bunch of wires inside, some of which going to the LCD screen. Again, im sorry I dont have pictures. Look for the LIGHT BLUE and PINK wires. They will be bundled with a bare wire. This bare wire is the drain wire and its sole purpose is to provide a ground for any residual electricla noise that makes its way into the video wires. Dont worry about the sheild wire, just leave it in place. Get your wire strippers and carefully strip some insulation off off the light blue and pink wires. DO NOT cut them, you are just going to be making a splice into them. Now get your short (3 foot) good video cable and cut one of the yellow plugs off one end of the cord. Strip the wire so the two wires of the video cable are exposed. Now figure out which wire on the video cable goes to the center "pin" of the plug on the other end. Follow me? Basically you just need to separate the two wires and figure out which goes to the metal "barrel" on the plug and which goes to teh center pin. The center pin is "VIDEO +" and the surrounding barrel around the center pin is "VIDEO -". Ill try to find a cable and get pics.

Now when you have all your wires stripped and ready to connect, splice the "VIDEO +" wire of the video cable into the LIGHT BLUE wire on the RSE assy. Splice the "VIDEO -" wire into the PINK wire. Solder the connections well and tape up well with electrical tape. You can also use ScotchLoc quick wire taps, but for the lossy video signal I do NOT reccomend using these. However if you dont feel comfortable soldering, it should be OK, just tape them real well after.

Now that you have the video cable tapped into the RSE assy, you need to hook up the video amplifier. When you split a lossy analog composite video signal like this, the gain gets halved and you lose signal quality. The RSE unit most likely has AGC (auto gain control) to compensate for this, btu soemtimes its not enough for another monitor... So you need a video amplifier to add extra monitors to one signal source. You can mount the video amplifier up in the ceiling, I dont know how big exactly it is, but it should fit between the roof and headliner. Some video amplifiers need to be powered. For these powered video splitters, take the two power wires (ground and +) coming from the splitter and tap into the power wires going into the RSE. The main plug that connects the body to the RSE assembly will have these wires. This is the plug that you disconnected in the first step. ORANGE is battery positive (pin positon 9) and BLACK/WHITE (pin position 7) is ground. One thing tho. I think these wires are hot all the time regardless of ignition position. So be careful when you are tapping into/stripping these wires. I highly highly doubt that it will draw enough power to drain the battery when the truck is not running, but if you start having problemsd with the batteries going dead, let me know and I will explain how to add in a switched relay for the power to the video amplifer.

OK once the video amp has power and thats all taped up and connected, plug the video cord that you tapped into the RSE into the yellow plug on the video amp labeled "INPUT". Then stuff the video amp up into the ceiling. Again, you I dont know how exactly it will fit or how big it is. Then tidy up all of your connections and splices. Before you put the RSE back up into place, Plug your long sheilded composite video cord into one of the yellow video "OUPUT" plugs on the video amplifer. Then run this cable to whereever your auxillary monitor is going to be mounted and plug it into the aux screen. Now you can put the RSE back into place. Be sure no wires are pinched or anything and then carefully screw it back into place. Finish hooking up your aux screen and then turn the ignition ON and pop in a DVD!!! Again, I dont have an RSE, so I cant test this, but there is NO reason it should not work... Let me know if you have any questions...

One more thing. The headphones for the RSE will NOT work in the front, They work off of an infrared signal that relies on line-of-sight to work corrrectly. meaning if you are not sittign in the back seat, the headphones wont receive the signal I dont think. If this is a problem and you dont want the RSE playing over the main speakers, I can add onto this DIY article and write up how to splice into and add an auxillary audio headphone jack for the front seat passenger. Hope that helps. I included a schematic so you can see kinda what you are doing...


Copyright © BT DieselWorks. All Rights Reserved